Let's visit "Chumphon" again, shall we?

Even with limited time or only weekends available, a getaway is still possible!

A Return to Chumphon: Relaxation and Local Life at Dan Dom Homestay

This passage describes a return visit to the Chumphon Province in Thailand, specifically to a homestay by the sea. The author expresses their enjoyment of the simple atmosphere and the opportunity to connect with the local way of life. They specifically mention staying at Dan Dom Homestay in Ban Ao Kram, Sawi District, Chumphon.

Dan Dome Homestay is a homestay located in a fishing village by the sea in Ao Kram, Sawi District, Chumphon Province. It offers a simple atmosphere, suitable for those who are easygoing and adaptable. The homestay is surrounded by nature, including mountains and trees. Notably, it is located slightly away from other villagers' houses, providing a greater sense of privacy. The villagers here are primarily fishermen. Staying here allows you to experience their unique and traditional way of life, including "squid fishing with light," which is said to be found only in Ao Kram, Sawi District, Chumphon Province. In addition to relaxing by the sea, staying at Dan Dome Homestay offers a full culinary experience with fresh seafood from the sea for every meal (700 baht/person = 1 night accommodation + 3 seafood meals + squid fishing trip). It's definitely great value for money!

Go… to Dan Dome Homestay: What to do?

Go… Stay at a Homestay

The homestay accommodation is a simple dwelling located by the Ao Kram Bay. It offers basic amenities and small, simply partitioned bedrooms with shared bathrooms. Alternatively, guests can choose to sleep on mats and futons in the open courtyard to enjoy the sea breeze.

Let's go eat seafood.

The homestay provides three seafood meals a day, featuring fresh seafood directly from the sea. The specific dishes vary depending on the daily catch, ensuring a diverse culinary experience. Expect a bounty of shrimp, shellfish, crab, fish, and squid.

The "squid fishing" experience, said to be unique in Thailand, can only be found at Ban Ao Kram. For an unforgettable evening activity, head out to sea and enjoy fresh squid right on the boat!

Go see the bioluminescent plankton.

After finishing squid fishing, if the weather is good, you can also stop by to see the bioluminescent plankton. On nights with no moon, the dark sea makes the bioluminescent plankton even more visible. (The amount of bioluminescent plankton you see will depend on various factors.)

Travel to Koh Kula

Koh Kula, a small island in the Chumphon Sea Archipelago, is located in Sawi District, Chumphon Province. Just a 20-minute boat ride from Ao Kram Bay, this island offers stunning natural beauty, crystal-clear waters, and a peaceful atmosphere. Visitors can enjoy leisurely walks along the beach or take advantage of the complimentary kayaking services available on the island.

Itinerary for this trip

Day 1: Arrive at Dan Dom Homestay and enjoy lunch (meal 1). Relax, play, sleep, or take a walk and enjoy the view at Ao Kram. In the evening, take a boat trip to set up gas tanks for "bam squid" fishing. Return to the homestay for dinner (meal 2). Later in the evening, go "bam squid" fishing and watch the bioluminescent plankton.

Day Two:

Morning: After breakfast (meal 3), embark on a boat trip to Koh Kula (not included in the package; boat rentals range from 800-1000 baht per boat, depending on the number of passengers).

Late morning: Return to the resort, check out, and depart for Bangkok.

Traveling from Bangkok to Siwa

The most convenient way to travel to Sawi District is by train, in addition to buses and private cars. Here's a recommended travel method:

Outbound – Special Express Train 39/41 departs from Bangkok Station at 10:50 PM. The ticket price is 562 baht. If you travel on Friday evening, it is very suitable. After work, you have time to go back to pack your bags, take a shower and get dressed comfortably before leaving. This train will arrive at Suea Railway Station at around 6:30 AM, which will be early morning. If you leave on Friday night, you will arrive on Saturday morning and have time to travel comfortably.

Return Trip – From Suea Railway Station back to Bangkok, Special Express Train 40 departs Suea Railway Station at 12:18 p.m. for 562 baht. Arrives at Bangkok Railway Station at 7:45 p.m. After checking out, you can take the train back at a convenient time. You will arrive in Bangkok not too late at night. Alternatively, you can choose the train departure time according to your needs (as shown in the train schedule). This may depend on the activities you do that day or if you want to stay and explore nearby areas before returning to Bangkok.

DAY #0 BANGKOK – SAWI

10:50 PM. Take the train to Sawi!

This trip... We traveled together with a total of 3 people. We met at the Bangkok Railway Station well before our departure time to find something to eat to fill our stomachs. Soon, it was time to set off!

The Special Express Train 39/41 will depart from Bangkok Railway Station at 22.50 hrs.

Board the train and take a seat according to the designated seat number on your ticket. The air conditioning is cool, bordering on slightly cold. The seats are comfortable and spacious. A small snack and beverage service is also provided.

DAY #1 SAWI, CHUMPHON

7:00 AM - Sawi Railway Station, Chumphon Province

After a long and intermittent nap, we arrived at Sawi Railway Station. Prior to this, the train had stopped at a major station, Chumphon Railway Station, where most passengers disembarked. We were awakened then, but we had to continue our journey for a short while longer to reach Sawi Railway Station.

Across from the Sawi Railway Station, there is a small market in the morning. There are various food stalls selling breakfast items such as deep-fried dough sticks, coffee, rice porridge, and congee. We recommend the blood pudding stall at the corner of the street opposite the Sawi Railway Station. It's a great place to grab a hot breakfast in the morning.

A steaming bowl of pork blood soup with rice, please. It's surprisingly delicious!

During that time, I contacted the accommodation to pick me up. The distance from Sawi Railway Station to Dan Dome Homestay is approximately 20 kilometers.

The homestay offers pickup service by pickup truck for an additional fee of 300 baht per trip (depending on the number of people). However, it is worth noting that this price is reasonable, especially when traveling with a group, as the cost per person is minimal.

9:00 AM Dan Dom Homestay

A short drive brought us to Ao Kram Bay, where fishermen's houses line the shore, nestled between mountains and trees, creating a harmonious blend with nature.

And here we are at the entrance of Dan Dom Homestay, our accommodation for today. I was warmly welcomed by "พี่ประจักษ์" and "พี่จรรยา", the owners of this homestay. Their friendly and engaging personalities made me feel right at home, as if I were visiting relatives. It's clear that a comfortable and relaxing stay awaits me here.

The homestay is a large, elevated wooden house located by the sea. It features a spacious veranda or balcony, perfect for enjoying the view and the refreshing sea breeze.

The tranquil atmosphere of the ocean in front of the homestay stretches as far as the eye can see.

The relaxed atmosphere enticed us to lie down and soak in the sea breeze. The ambiance was truly conducive to relaxation, allowing us to find comfortable spots to nap as if we were at home. This area would also serve as our sleeping quarters for the night.

Staying in a homestay here is a simple and relaxing experience. While amenities may be limited, you'll have the opportunity to immerse yourself in the authentic lifestyle of local fishermen.

The mats, mattresses, and blankets can be taken to various corners for sleeping as desired. The blankets are neatly packed in plastic bags, fragrant, clean, and worry-free. If it's hot, there are fans available. For those who are worried about mosquitoes, there may be some in the early evening, but later at night, there are no mosquito problems. You can sleep comfortably.

Currently, it's a time for relaxation, sitting and playing, lying down and playing, and enjoying the sea breeze.

Sneaking into the kitchen, I saw live horse crabs ready to be steamed. Coming here... I get to eat fresh seafood like this.

The bathrooms here are located on land, near the homestays. There are several bathrooms available, which are clean and usable.

Dan Dom Homestay offers two large houses for accommodation. If you are coming in a large group and want privacy, you can also stay in another house that is located a little further in.

This room is more private, but the sea view is slightly narrower.

The common area is spacious and comfortable, with amenities comparable to the main house where we are staying.

Let's take a short walk around this area, which is close to the entrance of Dan Dom Homestay. There is a viewpoint with a high angle view of Ban Ao Kram, just a few tens of meters away.

A short walk up and you'll reach the scenic viewpoint of Baan Ao Kram.

From this vantage point, you can see the houses of the fishing community in Ao Kram, whose lives have long been intertwined with the sea.

11:00 AM: Time for Lunch!

Our first meal... of the trip, lunch (meal 1), consisted of 3-4 dishes served on the floor of the house, creating a relaxed and casual atmosphere. We gathered around, waiting to eat. Once everything was served, we dug in.

The food all looks delicious, with fresh seafood ingredients.

A quintessential Southern Thai dish, bursting with bold flavors, perfect with steaming hot rice. A truly delightful culinary experience.

Fresh shrimp with a delicious seafood dipping sauce!

We all pitched in to prepare a delicious lunch, and we devoured every last morsel. Not a single grain of rice was left in the pot! After our satisfying meal, we succumbed to laziness and found cozy corners to nap in.

The afternoon was spent in leisurely pursuits, lounging and playing with no particular aim, until the sun began its descent. The sun's rays lost their intensity, and the seaside atmosphere seemed to relax and become more comfortable.

6:00 p.m. Departing.. "Squid Trap"

Must-try activities when staying at a homestay here include "squid scooping," which is said to be unique to Thailand and can be found at Ao Kram. Similar to lift net fishing, squid scooping uses a net stretched across four wooden poles in the middle of the sea. The net is then illuminated by gas lamps hanging above, attracting squid to the light. When the time is right, the winch is turned, pulling the net up above the water's surface. The squid are then scooped up with a swing net. Once you have fresh squid, you can try eating it raw with seafood dipping sauce, which has a chewy, sweet texture, or take it back to grill over low heat for a delicious treat!

Prajak prepares a gas tank to be installed for squid luring. We also closely followed to see the squid luring method.

Setting sail in the late afternoon allows you to enjoy the serene atmosphere of the Gulf of Thailand. The tranquility of the sea is truly captivating.

Upon closer inspection, you'll notice clusters of wooden poles scattered throughout the azure bay. You might wonder, what purpose do these poles serve? These poles, known as "bamee muk," are a traditional fishing tool used to catch squid. Let's hop on a boat and get a closer look.

This firefly squid watching trip is included in the package. You will definitely go firefly squid watching. However, whether you will see firefly squid or not depends on the season and weather conditions at the time of your visit. If you go during the right season, you will see a lot of firefly squid. If you go during the wrong season, you might only see one or two firefly squid. 55+

The sun began to set, and the gas tank was lit, ready to be installed.

The boat's engine was switched off, allowing it to drift slowly with the current towards the designated "squid jigging" spot.

Subsequently, a gas tank was installed by securing it with a rope, suspending it above the sea surface.

7:00 PM. Dinner...in full swing!

Returning to the homestay in the evening, the sun is setting, and we can watch the sunset right in front of the homestay.

It's time for dinner (meal 2). This meal is packed with 4-5 seafood dishes, allowing us to indulge in a seafood feast.

Steamed blue crab, a perfect choice for tonight's dinner. Fresh blue crab with firm meat, dipped in seafood sauce. It's truly delicious.

The deep-fried fish with three flavors was delicious. It was perfect with hot steamed rice.

Deep-fried squid. I personally like this menu. I like to eat squid anyway... Delicious...

"The oysters here are fresh, unlike the ones you buy at the market. Seriously."

A must-try dish: "Stir-fried Egg with Bai Liang"

It was a truly satisfying meal. Three of us shared a large amount of food, including crab and shellfish. We ate until we were pleasantly full, to the point of being comfortably stuffed. This meal was a real treat.

9:00 PM. Let's go see the work of... "Squid Game"

It's about time...

Prajak asked us to board the boat and head out to sea again to see if we could catch any squid.

Embark on a boat journey to the original location where the gas tank was installed and suspended.

Under the cloak of darkness, the lone gas lamp illuminates the night, acting as a beacon that attracts a myriad of marine life, including squid and various other aquatic creatures.

The next step is to haul the net. This is done by turning the winch, which pulls the four corners of the net up to the surface of the water. Everyone waits with anticipation to see what has been caught.

The period during which we traveled coincided with a low season for squid, resulting in a smaller catch. However, the amount obtained was sufficient for consumption and satisfied our cravings.

The fishing net is pulled up using a winch, and the fish are scooped out using a swing.

This time, a large crab was caught. Small fish or other unwanted marine life were released back into the sea.

This trip to the sea, I'm focusing on "squid" in particular. I didn't forget to bring seafood dipping sauce on board. We'll be slicing the squid and eating it fresh on the boat (if I could get some wasabi, that would be even better). I'll try it in a variety of ways.

"The squid that Bam caught was a satisfying amount, and everyone enjoyed eating it together."

Fresh squid is transparent like this. Let's prepare to slice it and enjoy it fresh.

First, remove the insides and clean them.

Rinse and cut into bite-sized pieces, like sashimi.

Dip in the prepared seafood dipping sauce (or wasabi).

And then... I put it in my mouth and ate the fresh squid. It was chewy and sweet, and the squid meat was quite sweet. It was a good experience to try it, and it was worth it.

9:30 PM. Stop by to see... the bioluminescent plankton!

After enjoying fresh "squid" in the middle of the sea, we stopped by to see the bioluminescent plankton on our way back to shore. The abundance of bioluminescent plankton depends on various factors, including the season and weather conditions. It is best observed on dark moonless nights when the atmosphere is completely dark and free from any light disturbances.

The boat we were on turned its bow towards a cliff face not far from the village. We began to notice that the surface of the water, which the boat was slowly cutting through, began to have a shimmering blue light on the small crests of the waves, a sign that we were entering the area of bioluminescent plankton.

Following Prajak's instructions, we dipped our hands into the seawater. Upon contact, the water illuminated with a beautiful blue light.

Capturing the bioluminescent plankton on camera can be challenging due to the limited space on the boat and the constant rocking motion caused by the waves. The resulting photographs may not be as aesthetically pleasing, but the real-life experience is truly mesmerizing. The shimmering spectacle is a sight to behold, leaving a lasting impression on the viewer.

After admiring the bioluminescent plankton for a while, it was time to return to shore and rest.

DAY #2 KOH KULA

6:00 AM: Good morning, Ao Kram!

Waking up to a new morning... We got up from the bed that we had brought out onto the patio to sleep under the sea breeze. We slept soundly all night and woke up to a view of the sea. The morning atmosphere is so good.

Come and experience the morning life of the fishermen.

A hot cup of coffee is a must on a morning like this. "Sipping coffee and watching the fish jump" is a relaxing activity for this morning.

The "pla thong" fish, as mentioned, will gracefully swim for your viewing pleasure every morning. This is the origin of the phrase "sipping coffee and watching pla thong".

Some of the squid caught from last night's fishing will be lightly grilled and enjoyed for breakfast this morning.

The aroma of grilled squid wafted through the air as it gently cooked over a low flame, signaling the start of a delicious morning.

Grilled squid with seafood dipping sauce... simply the best, no further description needed. 55+

After grilling, cut and enjoy with the morning atmosphere.

In addition, a seafood porridge (meal 3) was also provided. It was served in a whole pot. This hot porridge goes well with the atmosphere.

For breakfast, I had three bowls of seafood rice porridge. I'm stuffed!

7:00 AM: Let's Go to Koh Kula!

This morning... there is still time for a trip to Koh Kula, a small island located near Ao Kram. The journey takes only 20 minutes.

A trip to Koh Kula is not included in the package. If you wish to visit Koh Kula, you will need to charter a boat. You can arrange this through your homestay for a fee of 800-1000 baht per boat (depending on the number of people). The boat can accommodate up to 10 people. If you are traveling with a group, you can split the cost and save money. Alternatively, you can join a group of other travelers and share the boat.

Our guide, Prajak, will navigate the boat to Koh Kula, providing insightful commentary along the way. His witty jokes and engaging personality create a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere. Before embarking on our journey to Koh Kula, we will take a moment to appreciate the morning scenery of Ban Ao Kram.

The boat sailed past Lion Mountain, which resembles a lion and is located a short distance from Ao Kram Bay.

Khao Chang (resembling an elephant in a kneeling position)

Entering the underwater coral zone, the water is so clear that the seabed is clearly visible.

This mountain resembles an angel. It takes quite a bit of imagination to see it, and you have to look at it for a while to see how it looks like an angel. (It looks like an angel turned sideways, with its hands clasped or raised above its head.)

A wider angle would help to clarify the image. It requires a high level of imagination. Haha.

Nearby, there is a naturally formed rock formation called "Khao Thaloo" with two holes, one on top and one on the bottom.

Another group of tourists who came on the same boat were having a blast.

This area is quite natural. If you come here in the morning, you might be lucky enough to see spectacled langurs.

Spotting the spectacled langur requires a keen eye, as its stillness and camouflage against the cliff face make it blend seamlessly into the surroundings.

It's time to head to "Koh Kula".

Passing by Koh Tao, which resembles a turtle crawling towards us.

We soon entered the area of Koh Kula, where the underwater coral reefs were abundant. Koh Kula is renowned for its beautiful coral reefs. If you want to go snorkeling, there are masks available for rent (100 baht).

Upon arrival at the island, visitors are required to pay an entrance fee of 40 Baht to the National Park.

The rose coral reef (as called by fishermen) located near Koh Kula pier is as beautiful as a rose.

Most tourists prefer to visit for half a day or, for a more relaxed experience, a full day, as it is close to the mainland. Activities on the island include snorkeling, with two small beaches where visitors can swim. These beaches are located close together, allowing for easy walking between them. Additionally, visitors can enjoy free kayaking.

In addition to being a tourist destination, Koh Kula is also a turtle nursery.

From the pier beach, walk for another 200 meters, you will find another beach, which is more peaceful. This beach has accommodation provided by the National Park, including bungalows for 1,200 baht per night, accommodating 4-5 people. There is also a camping ground with electricity available from 6 pm to 12 am. For those staying on the island, meals are provided at 600 baht per person (all 3 meals).

Importantly, this location offers free kayak rentals, allowing visitors to enjoy a leisurely paddle on the water.

In shallow waters, coral reefs and giant clams are clearly visible without the need for underwater diving.

Paddling a kayak to explore the natural beauty surrounding Koh Kula.

After a tiring paddle, we took a break to relax in a hammock on the beach. Our stay on Koh Kula was brief, lasting only 1-2 hours. The island is incredibly small, so we had ample time to rest and unwind on the beach before our departure.

The tranquil atmosphere of the beach makes it an ideal spot for relaxation. You can spend the entire day lounging, playing, or simply enjoying the serenity.

11:30 AM. Departure!

The boat returned to Dan Dom Homestay, where we showered, changed clothes, and packed our belongings in preparation for our return trip. We had arranged for the homestay to drop us off at Sawi Railway Station in time to catch the Express Train 40, departing at 12:18 PM and costing 562 Baht. The train arrives at Bangkok Railway Station at 7:45 PM, a convenient time that allows us to reach Bangkok without arriving too late.

This short trip was a relaxing experience. Staying in a simple fisherman's homestay felt like visiting a relative's house. The atmosphere was friendly and lively, with fresh and delicious seafood. The close proximity to nature made for a wonderful experience.

Contact Dan Dome Homestay:

Facebook Dan Dome Homestay - Ban Ao Kram

Phone: 086-941-7046

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